Most people arrive on Saturday morning. We arrived on a Thursday evening and had the harbour almost to ourselves.
The boats come in early. By seven the fish is on the tables at the slipway and by nine the best of it is gone. We bought snoek for the braai and spent the rest of the morning walking the beach north of the village, where the only other footprints belonged to gulls.
Where to eat
There is a restaurant everyone tells you about, and you should go. But the small kiosk by the harbour does fish and chips wrapped in paper for a third of the price, and you can eat them on the wall watching the boats.
When to leave
Saturday at lunchtime. The cars start arriving from about eleven, and the village you had on Thursday is gone until Monday.